Piilani Highway : Driving the back road to Hana
They said not to do it!
They said to take the Hana Highway (State Highway 360) all the way to Kipahulu, past Hana, and then drive back the same long winding way, even if the curvy road makes you sick.
The guidebooks cautioned against driving on the Piilani Highway, despite it being the most obvious, shorter and faster, way to come back to West Maui from Kipahulu. The rental car company said it would void the rental agreement, and we would be on our own in case the car breaks down. The numerous websites cautioned against falling rocks, flash floods, unpaved and crooked roads, livestock on the road, and, failing all the above, the wrath of God in various forms.
But we knew we had to see what Piilani Highway was all about.
And glad we did. For it remains our most memorable drive in Maui, along with the Kahekili Highway drive along the north west Maui coast.
Piilani Haighway (also known as State HIghway 31), is the road south of Mount Haleakala approximately between Ulupalakua and Kipahulu. On our trip to Hana, and beyond to Kipahulu, we drove back to West Maui on Piilani Highway. And we lived to tell the story. Believe me, Piilani Highway not half as scary as it is painted out to be, unless you are traveling the road after a rain-storm, or at night. Yes, its bumpy, one-and-a-half-lane-hugging-the-cliff at places, but its what memories are made of.
- December 25th, 2010
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Coonoor-Ooty toy train: the Nilgiri Mountain Railway
Tea gardens in the fading evening sunlight.
The day began well. Blue sky over the Blue Hills (Nilgiris, as they are known). It was hard driving up the 36 hairpin turns from Masinagudi to Ooty (Udaghamandlam to some). The railway station at Ooty was crowded with tourists wanting to ride on the fabled “toy” train between Ooty and Coonoor. The queue snaked outside the station. We decided to drive to Coonoor, and take the train from there at the end of the day.
It was a good decision, because when we arrived at Coonoor station at 4pm, the booking counters had opened, and there was hardly anyone there.
We did an 18 km journey in some 1 hour and 15 minutes through beautiful countryside. In the process, the train moved uphill from 5600 ft (Coonoor) to 7220 ft (Ooty). This is what “slow” movement is all about! This is a great train journey to do when you are not in a hurry to go anywhere in particular.
- March 18th, 2012
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Postcard from Bangalore
M G Road. Old Bangalore. (Photo courtesy: Unknown)
Dear Bengaluru,
My, my, how you have changed! I remember you, young, green, fresh. You had an innocence in your simple ways. I remember your salubrious weather, your unclogged streets, your tall trees and green parks. Quaint alleyways, clean streets, shop-owners who went home at mid-day for siesta. The simple pleasures of life were there for all of us to cherish.
I remember the colorful markets of Malleswaram, shopping for groceries at Nilgiris, seeing James Bond movies from the first row for Rs. 2 as a student. And then there were the occasional noodle soups at Rice Bowl, and spicy Biriyanis at RR. Hungry from lack of real food in our hostel, we devoured Tandoori Naans by the mouthful at New Shanthi Sagar. And, to top it all, there was Vanilla icecream with hot chocolate fudge at the Corner House! Oh, it was heaven.
And friends, I had them all. There was always company for the weekend movies to M. G. Road. Late night rides on Deccan Herald bus, sitting on freshly minted newspaper, coming back to Indian Institute of Science. Parties on everyone’s birthdays, and even when it was not anyone’s birthday in particular. There was music. Late night walks to Yeshwantpur. Chilli Chicken from Ratna Bar, lovingly called Rats. U B Export. Love. Hate. Envy. Sweet Love.
- March 11th, 2012
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Thoughts from green Taro fields, Hanalei Bay, Kauai
Taro fields. Hanalei, Kauai, Hawaii
Hanalei grows on you. A quaint, small town along the north shore of Kauai, it feels like the real Hawaii that Honolulu, in a strange but certain way, does not. Hanalei is a surf and beach town, with it’s share of sun-bronzed bodies, matted hairs, surfboards; gentle rolling waves near the shore, and humongous ones farther out near the edge of the reef; budget Hawaiian ber-b-que and a sprinkling of upscale eateries; enchanting art galleries; vendors selling green coconuts from the back of pickup trucks; families on the beach enjoying a life everyday that the average city-dweller Joe can only dream of.
You get the picture.
We were on our way along the north shore of Kauai. Passed through the fake facades of Princeville, with its designer golf courses, its entry fountain and its manicured lawns; a place as foreign to Hawaii as the people who live there. As you drive past Princeville on Highway 96 and stop at the lookout point, Hanalei unfolds before you. And what a difference! As if you have arrived at the real pyramid after passing through Luxor, Las Vegas. Bye golf courses! Hello Taro fields!
- January 8th, 2012
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Napali coast, a garden of Eden
Napali cliffs. Napali coast. Kauai, Hawaii
I have seen a bit of the world as it used to be many thousands of years back. It’s called the Napali Coast, and it’s in Kauai. Its about twenty miles of coastline that stands some three thousand feet tall at places, much of it untouched by humans. Jagged peaks stand as sentinels over a wild, churning ocean. Deep green valleys are carved by rainfall, and waterfalls stand a few thousands of feet high. White birds with long tails glide effortlessly over its dense canopy. It’s a place the wanderlust dream is made of. And what beautiful names of valleys that evoke the memories of paradise: Hanakapiaai, Kalalau, Honopu.
See it from a distance. Leave no trace.
- January 7th, 2012
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Hanapepe, Kauai’s biggest little western town
Native Hawaiian playing ukulele. Hanapepe art walk. Kauai, Hawai
Imagine, if you will, the western town as they show in Hollywood movies. Imagine the moment, when the infamous outlaw rides into the town’s Main Street. It’s a dusty street with taverns and bordellos and banks on either side, and from what you see, its all of one block long. It’s the middle of the day, the sun is high, but not a soul stirs. As you watch, the wind rises suddenly, blowing dust across the street. The dust devil slowly dances along, getting weaker, and finally disappears. Suddenly there is a noise at the distance near the bank, and our outlaw is immediately alert, his hand moves lightning fast, seeks his gun. There is perceptible tension in the air, as we get to see the weather-beaten face of the outlaw in closeup. He is alert and calm at the same time, waiting for trouble that will be dealt with quickly and with certainty. But no, its just a dog that comes limping out from behind the bank, and trots away with an ungainly tread. The outlaw relaxes, a hint of a smile caresses the corner of his mouth, and he pulls the reign of the horse to take a step forward. Just then …
- January 6th, 2012
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